Many years ago, as a young man in my twenties, a mate introduced me to scrambling. I had no clue what it was or what it involved, but he was a good lad and it was a weekend in the Lake District and so it sounded like the sort of lark I’d enjoy.
We cut our teeth on the infamous, though in reality, very friendly, Striding Edge that led us to the summit of Helvellyn. It went so well that we were in fact back at our car by lunchtime. Idly flicking through his guide book my mate then suggested we tick off one more route to make best use of the daylight remaining that day: and so off we went to St John’s in the Vale for a grade 3 epic named Sandbed Ghyll.
I had no idea what I had agreed to or what lay ahead, but what transpired was three or four hours of near death scrambling up a Lake District ghyll which to make matters worse, was in spate at the time. Once established on the route, we were committed, and while my mate blithely led the way I felt every perilous step would be my last. I confess, I was terrified the whole way up, wondering what on earth I was doing on such a route. This is not the baptism by fire I would recommend for newcomers to this great sport, and so now I’m a bit older and wiser, I share with you dear reader, some pearls of wisdom gleaned over those years.
(For what it’s worth, we went out and did a lovely grade 2 scramble the next day and I loved it!)
What is scrambling?
Scrambling lies in that grey area between hill walking and rock climbing. It is where you head out to the mountains equipped for a day of walking, but looking for a definite adventure. You look for lines that will allow for some clambering and climbing on the rocks – but hopefully nothing too hard.
Simultaneously, scrambling is not quite technical enough to be rock climbing and for the easier grade 1 routes the moves aren’t too hard and you shouldn’t ever need a rope or any of the equipment needed for rock climbing other than in an emergency.
Scrambling grades
Scrambles are graded 1 – 3, with grade 1 scrambles being at the easier end of the spectrum. Normally these are easy to follow and to climb. If you’re having a bit of an epic these routes shouldn’t be too hard to escape from. That said, escaping from classic grade 1 routes such as Tryfan’s North Ridge or a traverse of Crib Goch could prove difficult and more dangerous than sticking to the route.
Grade 2 scrambles will involve some harder moves and will in general be more committing. Inexperienced scramblers who may not be so confident at height or not so sure-footed may prefer some of the moves to be safe-guarded by a rope.
With grade 3 routes you should expect the whole shebang! Go out and expect the route to be hard to find, hard to climb and do expect to need to rope up for the crux moves.
Grade 2 and 3 scrambles also tend to involve a lot of decision making the whole way and so particular care and judgement needs to be exercised on this ground. (In other words – learn how first).
First time – go with a mate (but maybe not my mate)
The first time you decide to head out for a scrambling adventure I suggest that you go with someone that can show you the way. Scrambling involves so many skill-sets that you really don’t want to be taking them all on in one day. Hence find an experienced mate, or join a club outing, or hire a guide for your first outing. This way you need not worry about choice of route, navigation, weather or the route finding.
Heuristic Traps
In everyday life your brain makes decision making into a simpler process by referring back upon a bank of past knowledge/experiences. Psychologists call this the application of heuristics.
For most day to day decisions this is fine. But, when we’re in the mountains we need to be careful about being a bit more considered in our approach to what we do. Some examples for the budding scrambler include:
- Human nature dictates that if we see other people doing something then it becomes legitimised as being ok or … safe. We also know that this is what sheep do and we must try to think independently and make informed decisions for ourselves.
- Sometimes we make a decision and then refuse to back down no matter that a disaster is looming in our faces. For example the weather is turning for the worst or daylight is dying, but your over-commitment to the goal means that you want to just … keep …. going.
- Those days when the weather is just perfect for a certain given route might lead us to deciding to do it – even though it is beyond our ability. Here the heuristic trap is the scarcity of opportunity leading us to make a rash decision.
There are other heuristic traps – but these are the ones that you’re likely to fall foul of as a novice scrambler. (Remember, just because nobody died doesn’t mean you made all the right decisions in any one day!)
With this in mind let’s talk about helmets, kit and ropes …
Helmet?
Some routes dictate that you should wear a helmet regardless of your skill or experience level. Often this might be because there’s an increased chance of loose rock above you, (often in gullies), or the likelihood of slipping over on wet rocks means there’s a fair chance you’ll lose your footing (ghylls). If I am headed out on a traverse of a popular ridge I won’t bother with a helmet. But if I’m headed up Sinister or Dexter gullies on Bristly Ridge for example, or I’m on Jacks Rake in the Lake District scrambling beneath lots of climbers above me, then I will take a helmet. I know that often I am the exception – most people never wear helmets on Jacks Rake – but then I’m aware of heuristic traps!
Kit
One of the great things about scrambling is that if you’re already a keen hill-walker then the chances are you don’t need to buy any further equipment. That said, on mountain scrambles, I prefer to wear approach shoes that are designed for climbing/scrambling. They’re lighter on my feet and stickier on the rock. In time you’ll want to start building up a small library of guide books and also get that helmet as mentioned above! In essence, go light, but be prepared as you would for any day on the hill.
Ropes?
As a mountain leader I always carry a rope when out with a group in the mountains. However I carry this not to facilitate the day’s plan but to facilitate an escape should the need arise. Typically in my 30 years of leading people in the mountains I have only ever needed a short line to short-rope someone off the hill because something has happened not to plan. One example of this was a client who suffered an injured knee on a traverse of the Welsh 3000s, and using the rope helped me get him off the mountain without him falling.
For grade 1 scrambles you should not expect to need a rope at all. For harder routes then a rope should be carried, but as important as having a rope to hand is having the skills that go with it. In essence, ropes are no substitute for experience and knowledge. If you’re going to do routes that may need a rope, learn the skills first.
Think carefully about your first route choice
There are some great grade 1 scrambles that you will be drawn to (especially if you ask the masses on social media for their opinion). Take care though to choose routes for your first forays that are not overly committing, that are easy to find and that are easy to follow. This is especially so if you’re headed out on your own.
Firstly, for your very first outing, steer clear of commiting routes that allow for no escape. Routes like Crib Goch for example are sustained and offer no escape once you’re up there. Jack’s Rake in the Lake District is an awesome route, but if you get half way up it and decide you’ve no head for heights, there’s no turning back!
Secondly, choose for a first route, one that is easy to find and to stick to. Tryfan’s North Ridge in Snowdonia is a favourite for many, but it’s so easy to wander onto challenging, exposed grade 2 territory. Again I suggest that this is a route best saved for a day when you are more experienced in route-finding, and have more confidence and skill with your climbing.
Thirdly – don’t choose routes just because they’re obvious and easy to find. Another honey-pot classic is Sharp Edge that takes you up to Blencathra in the Lakes. Personally I have been up this numerous times in all weathers and I have come to the decision that it’s always greasy and never that rewarding. Save it for a dry day when you need a quick fix and you’ve already got a few routes in the bag!
Go scrambling in good weather
When you’re headed to steep ground the chances of coming a cropper are greatly increased if the weather isn’t just right. For me, wind combined with rain often rule out scrambling. My rule of thumb is that if winds exceed gusting speeds of 25mph then I will rule out any scrambling where I am responsible for those around me. Look at the weather forecast and also consider the direction of wind as well as the speed and force. Lower speed winds that are across your path on an exposed ridge could be really dangerous for the scrambler.
Five Grade 1 Routes to Get You Started
These routes have been selected on the basis that you are likely to be new to this activity and so with a view to keeping things as simple as possible here I have selected five routes that should be easy to find and easy to follow. They are all great routes – though arguably better routes are to come!
1 – Helvelyn via Striding Edge & a descent down Swirral Edge
The bark is far worse than its bite and that’s why I recommend that on an early foray to head to the Lake District for this classic route. For a novice, one great thing about Striding Edge is that for a large part you can tame the ridge by taking the path that runs alongside the ridge proper. (You don’t want to do that though). There is a tricky down-step to take, but so long as someone is below you guiding your feet this should be fine. The ridge leads you to England’s third highest mountain, Helvelyn, and then you can choose to walk off down one of the many paths on offer or, even better descend via Swirral Edge. At first sight this might look a bit necky – but actually it’s fine! Do it.
2 – Summit Ben Nevis via the Carn Mor Dearg Arete
Never again walk up the tourists’ trail to summit Scotland’s highest mountain: it’s the biggest mountain in these isles so have an adventure ascending it. There are many ways to have an adventure on Ben Nevis but for the aspiring mountaineer cum scrambler this is a good place to start. And to be fair, on a summer’s day this route won’t really need you to get hands on with the rock, it is barely more than a walkers’ route, but the grand sweeping arc of this ridge that delivers you to the summit of the UK is an excellent place to start!
3 – The Bell & Levers Water Beck, Coniston Fells
The Bell is a great little route/crag for cutting your teeth on. It’s low in altitude and so it doesn’t get so battered by the weather, the rock is generally solid, and the holds are good. Care is needed however with the route-finding since it’s not always obvious. In essence if it feels a bit ‘necky’, or wrong, it probably is wrong. That said, one of the things that make this a good introductory scramble is that it is easily escaped along the way.
This scramble is perfect if you’re looking for a quick blast up the rocks maybe before getting on the road to head home. In fact it’s only fault is that it’s over too soon! If however you’re looking for a longer day on the hills, a natural continuation would be to connect this route to Levers Water Beck. This latter scramble is a bit scrappy and not particularly sustained in interest, but if you’re there anyway – you may as well give this grade 1 scramble a go anyway. From the top of that you can continue up the zig zags and bag the Old Man of Coniston!
4 –Pavey Ark via Stickle Ghyll and Jack’s Rake
Many people have heard of Jack’s Rake – which must be one of the BEST scrambles in the Lake District, but almost no one approaches it via an ascent of Stickle Ghyll. Most people walk beside this ghyll without realising the fun there is to be had ascending it! The key to ascending this ghyll is to look for adventure and excitement but not to take on the sections that might be a bit beyond the scope of your skills. Don’t overly worry – try it – you can always escape from it at any time by side stepping onto the path.
Once you come to the tarn at the top you will quickly see Jack’s Rake scratched diagonally onto the ark of rock that is opposite you. Your first reaction will be to take a gasp and question your marbles. But as you get closer you’ll see that it really is very doable. Follow the obvious rake and love it love it love it all the way to the top!
Top tips for this day … It’s worth considering wearing helmets for this day. The ghyll scramble can lead to a slip, and Jack’s Rake takes a line that is below popular climbing routes where loose rock and gear may fall down upon you. Or consider going on a week day when there are fewer people about.
On Jack’s Rake you will feel safest against the wall – but actually the open scrambling on the left of the rake is usually the easier ground to take – though very airy!
If you have any doubts about your head for heights don’t start this route – once you’re on it, you will be committed to seeing it through to the end.
5 – Y Lliwedd (or Snowdon) via an ascent of Y Gribin
Perfect for a bank holiday weekend with a view to bagging a great route whilst avoiding the crowds. This is another great little gem, easy to find and easy to follow yet overshadowed by its mighty neighbour, Crib Goch. There’s rarely anyone on this ridge-line and that only makes it all the better! It offers easy scrambling up a broad-backed ridge which brings you out at a col between two more broad easy ridges. Turn right and you’ll be at the summit of Snowdon inside the hour. From here I like to head down the South Ridge of Snowdon and pick up the Watkin path down to the road. Alternatively steer clear of the hordes and choose the easy ground that will take you to the summit of Y Lliwedd on the left. This option makes for a slightly shorter day and so is a good one to do maybe before the drive home.
And one for the kids …
Crowden Clough in the Peak District – really easy, pleasant (though short-lived) scrambling that leads you to the heights of Kinder Scout. Best done on a hot day with your kids in tow! (Bring spare clothes for them). More details here.
Risk
Beware though: with scrambling comes risk. If you’re not sure about which route to choose for that day, or you’re not sure about how to find it or how to follow it you can end up on dangerously steep ground that you’re unable to escape from. If you don’t have a rope and find yourself needing one the consequences of a fall can be catastrophic. If you have a rope but don’t have the skills to safely use it, again the outcome could be fatal.
Scrambling is fun
Scrambling is exciting, it’s airy, it’s exposed, it’s exhilarating, and most of all it’s simply a GREAT way to ascend a mountain. Also it is a great way to enjoy an adventure. Go prepared for the day and you’ll have a great day to remember!
Recommended Scrambling Guide Books
North Wales Scrambles: a guide to 50 of the best mountain scrambles in Snowdonia
Scrambles in Snowdonia: Snowdon, Glyders, Carneddau, Eifionydd and outlying areas (Cicerone Guide)
Further reading
UKH.com – SKILLS: 25 Tips for Safer Scrambling Without Ropes
The BMC: The 5 biggest pitfalls to avoid when scrambling
Scrambling With Children
Five FAB Recommended Scrambles For Children
